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529 W Blueridge Ave, Orange, , CA,,92865

Professional Pond Maintenance Services
November 15, 2018 0 Comments

Koi Pond Filtration Information & Service

The media filter has long been used as a means to get water suitably clean for its intended purpose. The majority of city water systems across the globe use filtration set-ups comprised of rapid-type sand filters often in conjunction with more conventional slow sand filtration.

An effective method of eliminating suspended solid materials is to use a fine sand bed that is supported by appropriate drainage-facilitating materials. A gravity-centered process such as this nowadays must remove not just sediment, but also flocculation and coagulation caused by the presence of chemicals.

Filtration achieved by gravity does not have much impact on drinking water impurities without there being activated carbon within the filtering medium itself. An extra step in the treatment process is then required, and this involves using ozone or chlorine to disinfect as well as improve the water’s smell and taste.

Typical sand filtering components tend to be included within larger, more complicated multi-step treatment schemes. They require regular cleaning and frequent backwashing each day so that their effectiveness does not diminish.

Alternative type systems of filtration include biofiltration that uses microorganisms in aerobic or anaerobic states as well as pressure filtering systems. It is possible for media filters to utilize an array of inorganic and organic material to get water to the proper condition for irrigation use, aquaculture growth or for swimming pool applications. These filters also have the ability to eliminate pollutants from stormwater runoff in urban areas. The downside, however, is that these filters have a lifespan that is limited duration, and they are therefore relatively costly often leading to annual or semi-annual pond filtration repair.

We Suggest Pressure Filtration vs Submersible Pumps for Your Pond or Lake

The Best Pond Filter For Your Money

Four decades of product research, development and ongoing improvement have led to the Triton II filter. This is the industry leader in efficient and effective filtration service that requires minimal maintenance.

The Triton II’s distinctive design ensures that sand beds are kept level so that water flows evenly and filtration is as thorough as possible.

Its GlasLok™ manufacturing process results in the existence of a unitary, fiberglass-supported tank featuring UV-resistant properties that prevent corrosion and lengthen the system’s lifespan.

The design of the Triton’s flow system raises the quality of filtration results and establishes longer run times before backwashing is needed.

Not only does the Triton II bring impressive reliablity and mimimal maintenance demands, it enjoys a record of success that is unrivaled in the industry. No detail has been left untouched in the continued evolution of this top-of-the-line product.

Other Key Attributes Of the Triton II

Additional elements that make the Triton II stand apart from the competition are the fact that its blended water and sand drain expedites winterization and other service tasks and that its internal components are all threaded so that maintenance is a breeze. Finally, its swing-away diffuser facilitates instantaneous accessibility in relation to internal parts and the sand itself.

We don’t suggest these

One thing we also suggest is DO NOT BUY the Aqua Ultima II as these are proprietary and not as affective as they are shown to be. Due to the “bead technology” and proprietary fittings that are only replaceable by the manufacturer – these can be easily replaced with other pressure filters. We suggest contacting us before making any filtration purchase for your pond. (714) 613-0123

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November 15, 2018 0 Comments

Backyard Waterfall Construction & Maintenance Tips & Tricks

We all have been awed by the soothing sounds and serenity of waterfall, always stopping and gazing when out we come across such wonders of nature. The effects of these all-too-fleeting moments have a positive impact, one that we would love to experience even at home. Do not have to hike, cycle, or drive to a tranquil location to enjoy such pleasures; build your rippling brook in your garden which you can in a few days (over the weekends).

If you take a close look at most streams you will find them riddled with stones and gravel; these after as filters and they are what you need to set up an artificial stream that comes devoid of too much filtering and cleaning maintenance. You also will need an underground sump installed at the lower end of your waterway that will catch the filtered water and pump it back upstream. Keep in mind that the water will evaporate over time, and thus the need to replace it occasionally.

What follows in the information given below is a step-by-step guide on how to construct and maintain a waterfall in your garden in no time at all. We cover everything from what you need, knowing the ideal size of the stream, and prepping the setup location to the various stages of the construction project. Something worth an early mention is that you will have to get the expensive kits; instead, you will build the water system with various components that are readily available and will design something that best fits your outdoor space.

The steps given below will guide you on what to do so that you can do the project successfully. Keep in mind that it may be some heavy work but doable. You will need some digging tools and a wheelbarrow to move the dirt, gravel, and boulders.

Step 1: Select A Location

Pick your favorite space in your yard and then sit there as you visualize having a waterfall and stream running in your garden. While at it, visualize the ideal spot to install such a water feature. Doing this will help you plan accordingly as you also account for various things that include:

• Foundation

Is the soil loss or compact; if the former, then you will have to a bit of excavation. If the ground is solid and difficult to dig, you can opt to set up the stream above ground with a base made of stone.

• Slope

For the water to flow with ease, you should ensure there is a gradual slope of a drop of around 2 inches for every 10ft of the length of the steam. If you are thinking of working with a tall waterfall, then make the grade steeper, it will make the water move faster and produce a heavier sound if that is what you aim to achieve.

• Size

The size of the stream you wish to install will determine the amount of water to have in the upper pool and the lower basin when the pump is not running. To avoid getting things wrong, strive to achieve five gallons per a linear foot of flowing water with the stream measuring around 3inches deep and 2 and a half feet wide. We prefer working with our upper pool structure that has a capacity of 240 gallons and the lower basin holding 40 gallons. The two can support a stream requiring 75 gallons of water.

• Sound

A waterfall that is around 2 – 4 inches high is ideal if you are looking for something that generates enough noise. If you desire more noise, then you should get a waterfall that is 10inches or more in height.

• Location

It is pointless to install a waterfall that is not visible from the main area of your yard be it the patio or deck or even the living room. If you wish to enjoy the relaxing sounds of the flowing waters, then consider setting up the features close to your house. It can be near the bedroom if you wish to take in the sounds when in bed. Also, take into account proximity to a power source more so for the pump installed at the lower end of the stream. You also have to ensure that the spot you pick is one that you can reach with a garden hose for those moments when you need to add water.

For instance, you have an S-shaped stream next to your patio in your perennial garden and include a waterfall with sections of varied heights. Also, vary the width of the stream at is transitions from the waterfall to the lower basin so that you achieve something that looks natural.

Step 2: Order Stone

Quarries, Gravel, Sand, and Rocks, you should think along those lines when searching for stones to use for your new water feature. You can search online as well as in the Yellow Pages. If you find contacts, get in touch with the suppliers to inquire about the kind of stones available (the size, quality, texture, and color) and prices as you also schedule to visit the supplier to see if what they have it exactly what you want. You can even get some suppliers to deliver the product based on stone type and size sorted in bags which means you will not have to worry about having boulder and piles of gravel and sand on your driveway.

For gravel, go for stones that are around 3/4 to 2 inches in size, and you will require around half a ton per ten feet of stream. The upper and lower pools will need around one to one and a half ton.

For the boulders, go for rocks that are around 6 to 24 inches in size that you will use to line the banks of the stream working with approximately 3/4 ton per ten feet of stream. You will also need bigger boulders of 12 to 24 inches in size to the upper and lower basins.

When buying the boulders, do not go for limestone because it can encourage the growth of algae. And if you are thinking of working with colorful rocks, be ready to dig a bit deeper into your pockets.

Quick Note: Before ripping the ground open to pave way for the water feature, call 811 to have all the underground utilities in your yard marked.

Step 3: Map the stream and start excavating

Once your gravel, sand, and rocks arrive, you can begin mapping out the design and them draw it on the site with spray paint.

You can start with the upper half of the water feature where you will have the waterfall; it should be done above the ground. Carve is lower half to about 15feet as you excavate the soil. Remember to work smart instead of hard so that you dig with ease without making your muscles too sore.

After you are done with the upper pool proceed to work on the lower basin which will have the sump pump and much of the stone and gravels surrounding it; dig a hole that is 6 inches deeper than the ground height and around 2 feet wider in diameter at the top than the base. It should be comparatively wider than the stream.

When done with the upper pool and stretching out the stream leading to the lower basin, build a ring of rocks around the upper and lower basin foundation as well as the banks of the stream. Have the tall stones with their flat side facing upwards to allow the next layer of rocks that will be placed on top to fit securely. If you need to pack the gravel and dirt tightly, use a rubber mallet so that you avoid breaking the stones.

Step 4: Complete the lower basin first

When done with the first phase, you should check for sharp objects in the lower pool and the end of the stream before you spread a liner or underlayment. You should have the correct measures of the area so that you avoid making excessive cuts resulting in wastage of the underlayment.

Ensure the liner is a perfect fit and have it tucked in all corners; give it an extension of about two feet out of the pool. You can then proceed to install the pump as well as the water line and ensure it runs up to the upper pool. You can then add around two layers of gravel and stones around the basin.

Step 5: Dig out or build the drop

If you have flat grounds, then you need to build up the waterfall above ground and ensure you target to achieve a streambed depth. If you have a sloppy yard, then dig down to the approximate drop depth. You will then start from the base of the stream carving a streambed of 2 to 3.5 feet wide and a 6 to 8 inches deep, as you dig the slope moving upwards to reach the streambed depth target at the waterfall drop where you will then dig out a shallow pool that will slow the flow of falling water.

For the waterfall built above ground, you may need to add a row of stones for the waterfall, ensure the stones are level and are of about 6 inches. Make a mixture of gravel and dirt and compact it on the inside and exterior of the upper pool rocks before you tamp down the area as well as the streambed.

Step 6: Spread the liner and position waterfall stones

The underlayment and liner should be spread running from the lower basin to the upper pool and a bit of slack allowed at the base of the waterfall so that the boulders do not stretch and rip it apart. You then proceed to place the huge boulders decoratively at either side of the waterfall having a rubber liner attached at the base of each rock to prevent it from tearing the underlayment.

To create above-ground stream edges that are stable, fill the back of the edging stones with a mixture of dirt and small gravel then compact it using a rubber mallet. You can then proceed to lay an underlayment in the upper pool ensuring that it tucks in at all corners and has an allowance of 2 feet. You can overlap the top liner with the one underneath so that you avoid having to tape the underlayment and then add a layer of gravel and stones on top, spreading around the upper pool.

Step 7: Add spill stones and foam the gaps

The next phase will see you introduce flat spill stones. You will need to use black expanding foam sealant made for the waterfall, natural pools, and ponds. Apply the sealant to the underside of the stones so that they can adhere to the rubber underlayment. Fill any gaps with small stones so that water can be forced to flow only over the waterfall. Apply the sealant on all side of the spill stones so that you achieve a complete seal and allow it to dry for around thirty minutes.

You then pull your garden hose and run the water allowing it to flow down the stream to the lower basin. Check for leaks (water trails) underneath and along the spill stone edges so that you can add more foam sealant; do this until the water only flows over the spill stones.

Step 8: Add gravel and clean the stream

The last stages of the construction will involve the placement of steppingstones in the stream; they should be in the middle so that people and animals can cross over. Take note of any exposed liner and cover with a layer or gravel.

Spray the entire stream with water until the water level is above the gravel in the lower pool. When the basin is filled up, get the pump running, and the connect water line directed away from the stream. Keep the hosing down the steam until you see the water coming from the water line connected to the pump is clear; only then will you direct the water line up to the upper pool. Ensure that you surely lay it so that it stays hidden as you also check for any visible rubber liner that you need to trim and cover.

When all is done, and everything is running seamlessly and looks breath-taking, you can pull up a chair with a cold beer or beverage in hand as you sit down and relax so that you can taking in the soothing sounds of your new garden waterfall and stream.

Additional Tip: Make sure that you know the various tools you need for the project and have them lined up; make sure you know how to use each so that you can save time and avoid injuries and frustrations..

If you have any questions or want to hire a professional pond service please contact us (714) 613-0123

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September 10, 2018 0 Comments

Is your pond or waterfall leaking?

All ponds will leak eventually. Understanding a true-leak vs water evaporation is a must. As a true-leak can be costly, and when caught earlier the better to avoid additional expenses.

Constructing a koi pond, waterfall, pondless waterfall, or other landscape water feature is a great investment for any property. When constructed correctly, water features can add tranquility and value to any property – residential or commercial. The sounds of water flowing freely, the greenery brought on by the beauty of a water garden, and the pleasure of owning koi fish, all bring delight to ourselves and customers renting the property. Unfortunately, all good things must come to an end – or at least a subtle halt while your water feature is to be assessed and repaired effectively for any leak.

Found a leak! Which will drain your bank account as fast as your pond – get to this issue early!

Understanding how to assess and diagnose a pond and waterfall leak can save you time and money. Typically we see 1-2″ per month of water loss due to evaporation, sometimes slighltly more due to water deflection around waterfalls and fountain points (where water will bounce outside the pond due to rocks etc) and each issue must be approach in its own fashion. The first two – evaporation and water deflection are important, yet not typically a threat to your water feature like a true-leak is

The Leak Detection

Okay okay – you’re ready to learn how to assess your water feature for a leak. Lets start with the basics. Running through these questions will help pinpoint step 1 of the leak assessment. Do you know how much water you are losing? Is it 1-2 inches daily? Weekly? Or monthly? A great way to trace how much water is actually being lost, is filling your pond or water feature with enough water to the “full” point. Meaning to where it should be. Make sure to add DeChlor if using a hose as tap water can kill your fish! Once your pond is full, set a stick or similar marker at the water line, and reassess 24 and 48 hours after filling the water feature. Note how much water loss is accounted for via a tape measure or ruler. If its anything beyond 1-2″ p/day – you might have a leak. 

Water Feature Full of Water?

The next step is evaluating the waterfall or areas water is coming back into the pond from. If its via waterfall or spout, simply by-passing this is how we test for leaks in that area. 75-80% of leaks we see are in the waterfall area. Seeping deep in the rocks and cracks, bypassing this will tell you if this is the leak culprit. If you have a standard upflow filter box (with lava rock / or mesh) simply remove this, and screw in a pool hose with a 2″ threaded fitting (refer to image).

Still Losing Water?

Time to let it sit. We recommend having some sort of aerator if you have any koi fish or turtles as they will need some air supply during this process. Once you have proper air supply for your aquatic wildlife, fill your water feature up again to a recognizable point, and turn your pumps off to let the water sit. The water level lowering will tell you if the leak is in the basin vs the waterfall. Following waterfall leaks, we see the basins leaking due to aged pond liners, aggressive vegetation, and even pond maintenance companies walking inside the water features (which we never recommend on non-cemented features) 

Not Losing Water in the Basin?

The final leak assessment step is evaluating the pond equipment. If the waterfall isn’t leaking, the basin(s) aren’t leaking, then it’s most likely the pond equipment leaking. Walking the perimeter of the water feature and looking for wet-spots in the soil and leaks in the equipment is your best option. Referencing the UV-light, pump, filtration, and pipes for leaks and sun-cracks is most important. Often times we see pool-style plumbing with years of sun fractures and minute leaks which ultimately can lead to a replace in your pond equipment.

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